Crabs

Crabs are in season from April to September, and in May they lose entirely the
dryness of flesh for which they are noted during the winter months. The richest
flavored crabs are those of medium size, say from six to ten inches in their broadest
diameter. They should be boiled alive, being plunged into cold water, and, as the
water warms, a handful or so of salt should be thrown in upon them, and when the
water has been boiling for twenty minutes or half an hour, according to the size of
the crabs, they may be considered sufficiently cooked. If placed in hot water at
first, they are apt to throw off their claws by a violent jerk, and then the water would
soak into the ilesh and make it sloppy. After the salt is thrown in, the scum which
rises to the top of the water should be carefully skimmed off. The claws of large
crabs should be tied to prevent their opening and pinching or injuring each other.
Crabs are usually sold ready boiled, which is, of course, a great convenience to the
cook, whose next care is that of selection. The best crabs are always heavy, according
to size ; the claws and legs should be all on. They should be firm and stiff, and
the eyes bright rather than dull. The male crab has larger claws than the female,
but less body in proportion, therefore selection should depend upon whether the preference
leans to white meat or to the rnore mellow liver and creamy fat which surrounds
it. The female also has a much broader tail than the male.