Soups

Kettner writes about Soup: “There has been a good deal of needless controversy
about Soup, some people finding in it a dinner in itself, and some refusing it
as a weak wash, fit only for babies and invalids. Grimod de la Reyniere said that
Soup is to a dinner what a portico is to a palace, or an overture is to an opera. It is
not only the commencement of the feast, but should give an idea of what is to
follow.” Another epicure, no less than Marquis de Cussy, dubs Soup a sort of
preface to the dinner, and expresses his opinion that a good work can do without a
preface. Undoubtedly the majority of opinions would be against the Marquis, for
with the Soup not only does the feast begin, but the stomach receives a little encouraging
stimulation which prepares it for the more elaborate task about to follow.
Admitting this, however, Kettner, continues, “It is quite true, however, that to serve
a purpose (stomach stimulating), we do not require much weight of matter, and the
plain rule to follow is: for a great dinner the Soups should be as light as possible,
just enough to give a fillip; for a little dinner, with only one or two dishes, they may
be as rich and satisfying as you please. De Cussy is quite in accord here with
Thomas Walker, who maintained that if he gave turtle Soup to his guests they would
want but little else—’whitebait and a grouse.’
”
Soup should always be sent to the table in a metal or earthenware tureen, tightly
covered. A metal ladle is best for serving and it should be separate from the tureen.
Tureens with holes cut in the lids for the ladle handle, let out the he.at and steam.
The following directions may be of value to the soup maker:
Bring the cold water in the stockpot with the meat and bones to the boil slowly,
and let it simmer for hours, never boiling, and never ceasing to simmer. Skim off
every bit of scum and fat, for which purpose it is as well to use a stockpot with a
faucet at the bottom. Beware of using too much salt ; a little is advisable, as it
causes the scum to rise, but as the liquid boils down, the proportion of salt is
increased in consequence, because the water flies off in steam, but the salt remains.
Soft water is the best for making Soup.

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